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#Mustard patina full
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I recently used Quick Release on one Delica because using Tuf-Glide the lubrication feature only lasted about 2 weeks, then there was a tiny feeling of no lubrication. If I can't cause corrosion intentionally after using Tuf-Glide then I can be confident it will protect the steel under normal every day use, even inside the pivot area which I saturate with it on any new knife, then about once a year after that. I hoped my using Tuf-Glide was doing some good and believed it was but now I think that has been confirmed. What you said confirms what I was thinking and hoping. Then I'll try darkening it up some to make it stand out more Just needs a few more applications so I get a strong pattern. Either way it seems to be working on my machete. Some others say to scuff the metal slightly so the acid can etch it easier. I advise you wash the knife in warm soapy water then clean it really well with alcohol to get bare steel. Tuf glide will most definitely stop the patina. I've done it a few times and I'm liking the patterns but I need to do it some more. Its actually the vinegar in the mustard that really does it but the mustard makes a vinegar paste instead of liquid so its more managable. After that its just hard to clean off but you have to use a thin layer of mustard so it can get oxygen to the steel and oxidize. VashHash wrote:I found it took about 30 mins for the patine to form. I appreciate all the info you guys provided. I'll leave the inside area of the blade alone like Creepo suggests. I have a consistant change in color on the blade except for the tang/pivot area. I would love to try creating the beautiful designs that Gunnut35 did but if I do that it will be on other knives first. Since my goal was to prevent corrosion with a little patina I think my goal has been satisfied. Then the pits formed because the mustard was on bare steel. Tuf-Glide advertises that it can't be washed off but I'm sure sharpening/stropping does remove it since that is removing steel. I say this because after I stropped the edge and bevel I assume there was no Tuf-Glide there. I am thinking the Tuf-Glide prevented patina from forming as fast as it would without it. When I started with the potato the entire blade was treated including the edge.
Then I remembered that I always coat knife blades with Tuf-Glide. I was able to remove the darkness inside the pit that I assume would have turned to rust and further damage. There were 5 small pits on the bevel like Toomzz mentioned. As soon as the mustard was dry I washed it off. Some mustard did get on the bevel though. Then I used mustard again trying not to get any on the very edge. The edge was a little dull so I stropped it to get the edge sharp and bevel shiny again.
Then I used mustard and that made a bigger difference than the others. The first thing I did was put the blade in a potato for a few hours with some but little effect.
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